Author Archive
Snapshots from Maine, Breakfast and Otherwise
Me and the ball-and-chain just got back from a week in Maine. If you’ve ever been, there’s a reason they call the state “Vacationland” as there is a lot to see and do and there is some beautiful scenery. While we were there, we of course had some excellent breakfasts, and other tasty treats. Here’s a photo tour:
Eat This: Brunch at Fonda in Park Slope
Park Slope abounds with brunch options, but the options are severely lacking in the Mexican department. And good Mexican options? In my opinion, there is only one: Fonda. Thankfully, it is not only good, but great. Not only is the decor and atmosphere interesting and lovely, but there is rarely a wait–a huge plus in NYC. And, believe it or not, there is a garden patio in the back. Chef Robert Santibañez grew up in Mexico City and recently released his cookbook, Truly Mexican, in April.You’ll often find him walking around and talking to customers, and perhaps offering free coffee as he did to us.
Not that I’m an expert on Mexican food, but this stuff tastes truly authentic, making proper use of the chiles and spices available. Brunch, which is very reasonably priced (most items are $10) and includes a mimosa (choice of hibiscus, guava, or mango–yes, they are as good as they sound!), is filling and delicious.
Unable to resist, I had the Chilaquiles Rojos with scrambled eggs (you can also get them with shredded chicken or grilled skirt steak). Chilaquiles, if you’ve never had them, are homemade tortilla chips drenched in a sauce–it can be mole, verde, or rojo. Fonda only offers the rojo version, a roasted tomoato-habanero sauce, but it is spicy and yummy in all the right ways and comes topped with crema and queso fresco–as most things should in a Mexican restaurant. The dish was so large I couldn’t finish it–not something that happens to me at brunch too often! Did I mention it was $10??
My brunchmate had the Huevos Divorciados ($10), another classic Mexican breakfast dish. It is two sunny side up eggs divided by two sauces, salsa verde and ranchera, with bacon, queso fresco, and crema, and it came with a side of rice and black beans. So much food! The flavors were complex and bursting with the right amount of spice. All too often Mexican food in NYC is way too bland. But not here!
 Fonda
434 7th Avenue
between 14th and 15th St.
Park Slope, Brooklyn
(718) 369-3144
DevoLT’s Picks for May
I know this is usually JudyJams’ deal, but I wanted to get in on the action this month because I’ve been listening to some really great stuff that I wanted to share!
First up is BOBBY, hailing from western Massachusetts. Molly Sarle, who is also in the folk trio Mountain Man, is on vocals for the delightfully weird group, who just earned an opening spot on Thao and Mirah’s upcoming tour. Their first album is out June 21 on Partisan Records. Check out two tracks from it here.
Marques Toliver is making waves in the UK and Brooklyn (he lives in both places), and he also wowed at SXSW, with his unique twist on R&B/soul. He was actually discovered playing on the street in NYC by TV on the Radio’s Kyp Malone. He’s a multi-talented violinist, autoharpist, and vocalist whom Adele claims is her favorite new artist. His tunes are soulful and emotive and may even have you dancing to boot. He’s currently unsigned but I’m sure that won’t last long.Check out these two tracks:
Deep in My Heart
White Sails (demo)
Another unsigned phenom, Computer Magic is the efforts of the singular blogger/DJ/graphic designer Danielle, or Danz, as she likes to go by. The style is electropop with bedroom eyes, or as Stereogum puts it, “It’s the kind of music the female leads in Sofia Coppola movies would make. ” The best part is, she shares a ton of music for free on her soundcloud page! I’m sharing a few tracks here, but head over there to hear lots more.
Grand Junction
Electronic Fences
Running
Lastly, we check in with Sweden, producers of some of my favorite musicians (Jens Lekman, the Knife, Jose Gonzalez). Niki & the Dove, who recently signed to Sub Pop, have recently released the soaring, spectacular single “The Fox,” which you can download for the price of your email. The beat is addictive and seems a harbinger to danger and singer Malin Dahlström’s voice is as clear as glass. All their songs are heavy on the synth and I’m thankful for that. Here’s a Mylo remix of their song “Gentle Roar.”
The Perfect Marriage: a Cookbook Author and a Musician
Yoshie Fruchter and Leah Koenig combine two of our favorite things in their marriage: she’s a cookbook author and food writer and he’s a musician. What more could a couple ask for??
Koenig‘s first cookbook, Hadassah Everyday Cookbook, recently came out through Rizzoli Publishing and is currently impressing Jewish grandmothers across the country, as well as their hip young granddaughters, like myself (yeah, I’m hip and young–what of it??) who always despair at the lack of creativity in Jewish cookbooks. And did I mention it includes a breakfast chapter? You can buy it here on Amazon.
Meanwhile, Fruchter and one of his several bands, Pitom, recently released their latest album, Blasphemy and other Serious Crimes, on John Zorn’s Tzadik Records. A mashup of jazz, funk, rock, and whole bunch of other stuff, Pitom creates unique music that is constantly evolving. On their new album they explore some more rock and grunge sounds that will surely make your ears happy. You can buy that album here on Amazon.
The two are teaming up outside of their home for an awesome event called Blasphemy and Bites. Fruchter and Pitom will be on hand playing their tunes, as well as the band Gutbucket, and Koenig will be there with tons of amazing samples on hand. It happens Monday, May 2 at The Rock Shop in Park Slope, Brooklyn. TnJ will be there and so should you.
TnJ also got the chance to interview this fabulous couple, check it out:
TnJ: Leah, your new cookbook, The Hadassah Everyday Cookbook: Daily Meals for the Contemporary Jewish Kitchen, features an entire chapter on breakfast recipes, which is somewhat of a rarity in most cookbooks, especially Jewish ones. Was it your decision/idea to include this chapter? Why did you think it was essential to include?LK:Â I think Jewish cuisine has added a lot to the world of breakfast. Bagels and lox, challah french toast, matza brie…we’ve got some real classics in the repertoire. Plus, breakfast is by far my favorite meal of the day. I find myself scheming up new egg dishes and baked goods more than anything else, so having a chapter dedicated to breakfast seemed like a no brainer.
Apple Walnut Bread
This super moist, nutritious quick bread is reminiscent of a Rosh Hashanah apple cake. For a twist, pour the batter into cupcake or muffin cups. Makes 2 loaves
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 eggs
3 cups Golden Delicious or Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped
1 cup walnuts, chopped
1/4 cup ground flax seeds
Turbinado sugar (raw sugar; for sprinkling on top)
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine both flours, salt, cinnamon, and baking soda in a medium bowl and set aside. In a second bowl, mix together sugar, oil, and vanilla. Add eggs one at a time to wet mixture and stir to combine. Pour wet mixture into the dry ingredients and stir until thoroughly combined. Fold in apples and walnuts (the batter will be very thick).
2. Lightly grease two loaf pans and spread half of the batter into each. Sprinkle the tops with a little sugar and bake for approximately one hour, or until a toothpick stuck in the middle of the cake comes out clean.
Eat This: Brunch at Rose Water
Somehow, we here at TnJ had sort of forgotten about Park Slope’s Rose Water. DevoLT had a birthday brunch there many years ago that was great, and we live near there, but somehow had managed to not go there for years. Luckily, that was remedied with a fabulous brunch experience on a recent Sunday.
Rose Water is charming and popular, hence there will likely be a short wait for a table. We ended up in a kind of odd, almost private nook that was nice except for the constant door slamming right near us. Luckily, the food make up for any slight uncomfortableness. Rose Water offers a $14 brunch prix fixe which includes an entree and drink (choice of coffee, tea–hot or iced–or juice or lemonade).
We opted to start with a basket of breads for the table ($7) and it was well worth it. The basket comes with 2 of each of strawberry scone, challah bread, and ginger bread, as well as butter and jam. The strawberry scone was pretty much amazing and the challah was yummy and soft. The ginger bread was our least favorite, but if you like ginger you will surely enjoy its chunks of it.
For our entrees we opted to get the special which was potato latkes with poached eggs and broccoli raab and mushrooms, and an order of the vegetarian dish, which is baked polenta with goat cheese, poached eggs, and a warm mushroom salad, which we swapped out for a regular salad.
The latkes were perfectly cooked and tasted delicious with the runny yolks of the broken poached eggs on them. The whole dish was covered in a delicious red, somewhat spicy sauce that at first seemed out of place but then quickly melded with the rest of the dish. It was topped off with a nice queso fresco to tie in the red sauce.
The polenta in this dish was in cake form, and topped with a nice shmear of goat cheese and a tangy, vibrant pesto. The pesto also ran across the poached eggs and the fresh salad. This was a great, fresh dish that was filling but not overly so. The bread that accompanied it wasn’t really necessary with the polenta cakes, but we’ll take it!
So, if you’re looking for that perfect brunch spot for this weekend, here it is! Rose Water is a classy joint with great food and good service. What more could you ask for on a Sunday morning?
Rose Water
787 Union St.
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718-783-3800
Eat This: Blue Sky Muffins
We here at TNJ have been longtime fans of Blue Sky Bakery, an excellent bakery in Park Slope. DevoLT and JudyJams used to live across the street and let me tell you it was dangerous. And amazing. Those folks know how to make a mean muffin. We haven’t gotten around to reviewing them yet, but James over at The Eaten Path recently wrote an excellent review and graciously offered to share it with us. Check it out here and visit Blue Sky soon!
Blue Sky Bakery
53 5th Avenue
Park Slope, Brooklyn, NY
Eat This: Brunch at Red Rooster Harlem
Red Rooster Harlem, the long-awaited and much-anticipated Harlem restaurant by the increasingly famous Marcus Samuelsson, opened its doors at the end of last year to much fanfare. Trumpeting Samuelsson’s Swedish and African roots with Harlem’s soul food heritage, Red Rooster Harlem’s brunch menu is full of interesting offerings drawing from all three influences.
The open kitchen at Red Rooster Harlem
Prudently, we made reservations (they take them on their website and at opentable), which seemed like the smart thing to do. At 11, we got a nice table in the dining room as opposed to the bar area up front and were seated immediately; after 12 there was a large crowd waiting in the bar area. The decor is homey and comfortable with a touch of class–there is some nice artwork hanging on the walls and an interesting mural covering the open kitchen in the back. The service was solid as well.
Now, on to the food:
We started with an order of cornbread ($4), which comes with two thick slices of cornbread and sides of honey butter and tomato jam. Slathering some honey butter on that cornbread was pretty heavenly. The tomato jam was nice and tomato-y–I wasn’t in the mood for that, but if you like tomatoes in the morning you’ll enjoy it.
Since there were four of us we got a pretty good sampling of entrees. We ordered the Wood Oven Baked Egg with Mac & Greens ($14), Nuggets & Toast ($15), Poached Egg, Shrimp, & Red Grits ($15), and Lamb Hash ($14). The restaurant gives you a choice of sides with the Wood Oven Baked Egg, the other choices being Wurst & Onion or Tomato & Mozzarella. While I can’t speak for those, I can say that the Mac & Greens are fabulous.
The eggs themselves come in a small cast iron pan, studded with chunks of thick bread. All in all, they were just eggs. But, the Mac & Greens, covered in bread crumbs and served in their own mini cast iron dish, were supremely delicious. A mix of comte, NY cheddar, and gouda give the orechiette pasta a nice, creamy and smoky base and the added greens make you feel a little less guilty!
The Poached Egg, Shrimp & Red Grits reportedly contained the best, juiciest shrimp my friend has ever tasted. The red grits are a nice, unique play on traditional grits, mixing them with tomatoes for a fresh and almost fruity flavor. The poached egg was cooked well and oozed it’s yummy yolk all through the dish.
The Lamb Hash joined chunks of tender lamb with potatoes and sweet potatoes and was served in a cast iron skillet. My husband reported the lamb juicy and well seasoned, and the potatoes went well with the lamb, with sweet potatoes adding a nice element to the overall flavor of the dish.
The Nuggets & Toast was my favorite entree of the morning. An innovative play on the traditional fried chicken and waffles, this dish has boneless chunks of friend chicken atop thick slices of brioche French toast. The whole thing was then soaked in maple syrup.
Let me start by saying I am not a huge French toast fan and almost never order it at a restaurant unless it sounds exceptional. My usual issue is that it ends up being too dry. However, these thick slices of brioche were cooked so perfectly that the middle was custardy and moist, while not being soggy. There was a LOT of maple syrup on there, which may turn some people off, but the syrup was so delicious that I didn’t mind. In fact, I loved it. The syrup also covered the chunks of chicken, which were spicy and peppery and crunchy and oh so yummy. All in all, a winning dish.
Of course, we couldn’t stop there–we had to have dessert! We ordered the Sweet Potato Doughnuts and the Warm Apple Pie. The doughnuts came with a bowl of whipped cream and a bowl of lemon sorbet. I was expecting to be blown away by the doughnuts–two of my favorite things, combined!–but in the end was a kind of disappointed. I wanted them to be more moist, and while I loved the squirt of sweet potato filling int he center of the doughnut holes, it was a tad flavorless, plus not all of them had it. However, JudyJams loved them and so did my husband, so what do I know?
Luckily, dessert was saved for me by the Warm Apple Pie! Boasting a “soft cheddar crust” this pie really blew me away. The apples were sliced very thinly and the crust was intensely amazing. And the vanilla whipped cream was the perfect accompaniment.
On a side note, I am so thrilled that both pie and doughnuts are having their moments in the spotlight lately, what with Four & Twenty Blackbirds, D.O.U.G.H., and the new Doughnut Plant location in Chelsea. Hooray for non-cupcake desserts!
The verdict? It is definitely worth traveling up to Harlem over the weekend to check out Red Rooster Harlem’s brunch–just try to get a reservation so you don’t have to wait. And then you can make a day of it by checking out some of Harlem’s museums or other delicious food institutions!
Eat This: Seven Grain Porridge from Natural Blend
Our one day of warmth last week was clearly just a tease…it’s back to freezing here in NYC. If you’d like to start your day with something warm and soothing, try the Seven Grain Porridge from Natural Blend, a vegetarian Caribbean joint in Prospect Heights. Just $3.50 will get you a full 8 oz of piping hot and hearty porridge. They also sell a large (16 oz) for $6.50, but I cannot imagine one person being able to eat all that–it would be perfect for two or three though.
They call it Seven Grain Porridge, and I spent a while trying to figure out what the seven grains are, or if there even is actually seven. I’ve concluded that there is definitely millet, oats, barley, and possibly amaranth and/or spelt in it. The grains are married together by a thick and milky liquid, flavored with spices like cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. The overall effect is warm, gooey, spicy goodness that will comfort you, while waking you up and preparing you to face the day. Perfection!
And, if you feel the need for a treat, Natural Blend also has excellent vegan baked goods, including various quick breads, like strawberry, carrot, and zucchini. And on the non-breakfast front, their vegetarian patties and other dinner items are delicious too. And cheap!
Natural Blend is located at 769 Washington Avenue in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, between Sterling Pl and St. Johns Pl.